Asteras has always been one of the best of the organised beaches, with a strong cosmopolitan flavour. The beautiful water, the fine sand, the floating diving platform and - let's admit it - the status of the adjacent Asteras hotel have always made it a favourite, even when its admission charge was three times that of other beaches.

However, it is not alone at the top anymore, as the Attica coastline now has beaches with much more advanced services - a fact that does not seem to be discouraging this beach's die-hard fans from gathering here.

Large groups of 30somethings cluster around the lone recliner they've been able to seize, the more athletically minded (sometimes including genuine sports stars) play racquets and beach volley for hours in the specially designated area next to the ruins of the ancient Temple of Apollo.

From mid-May until September shows its autumnal face, the beach is always busy, and on weekends it's really too crowded for comfort. Fortunately there's a notice board outside the entrance that tells you if there are any umbrellas free. Up until last year the managers of the beach looked upon their competition with a relaxed self-assurance.

The changes that they made were minor, perhaps a few more umbrellas and recliners (unfortunately, the plastic kind without an adjustable back). This year, however, with the Asteras being radically renovated, the historic beach will display its new face.