Our expectations were raised last two years, when this classic beach was taken over by the Daskalantonakis group (Grecotel). And, indeed, the new management announced an ambitious plan.  The new facilities will include, among other things, waterslides, beach bars, a traditional ouzeri, a seafood restaurant, a brasserie, snack bars, an ice-cream corner, a beach wear store, a cinema and special areas for receptions. The object is to create a "beach park" that will provide entertainment for all ages.

This, however, meant that all the old facilities had to be torn down and everything completely redeveloped from scratch. The result is that the work has taken a long time and the opening ceremony has been postponed until the summer of 2004, when the beach will be able to show off its new look. The stamp of the new management was already obvious even last summer, when the beach was operating with just the bare essentials (snack bar, recliners and showers). The sand was "fine-screened" and spotlessly clean. Discreet security guards monitored the action on the beach, politely hinting excessively enthusiastic racquet players away from the sand in front of the umbrellas (there is a special pitch at a distance from the recliners, so no one is bothered).

Given that this is basically a family beach, this polite maintenance of order allows absolutely everyone to enjoy their day at the beach. The water is crystal clear, but very shallow, and the seabed is naturally sandy. You can walk and walk and the water will still only reach your waist. But in the end it is worth the effort, because by the time it does become deeper you will be far away from the families that congregate in the shallows. Then you will really enjoy your swim, plus the prospect of the resort town of Varkiza (it's prettier from the sea) and the sight of the windsurfers, who traditionally gather here.