Vouliagmeni's erstwhile down-scale beach, once the cheapest on the coast, is no longer either cheap or down-scale. What's more, it is the only organised beach where all the furniture (recliners, umbrellas) is made of wood and very stylish - although be sure to bring a thick beach towel with you, because stylish doesn't necessarily translate into comfortable.

The sea here is awesome: deep waters, cold and clear. This beach and the organised Asteras beach (on the opposite side of the promontory) are complementary: when it is windy on one side, on the other it is dead calm. The main buildings near the entrance have had a simple facelift, but awaiting us on the far side of the beach is the super Okeanida self-service restaurant, decorated in style. This beach is a favourite with 20somethings, who overcome the financial barrier of the euro 5 charge for a recliner by taking just one (or at the most two) to be shared by the whole gang.

Although there are special areas set aside for sports behind the line of umbrellas, most people insist on playing on the wet sand at the edge of the sea, inevitably annoying those who simply want to lie back and enjoy the view of small sailing boats flitting back and forth across the bay. What saves the day is simply the fact that the beach is so big that in the end there's room for everyone.

Generally, although its new look isn't overly impressive, it wins on points: tasteful wooden furniture, bamboo rubbish bins, clay ashtrays, even the superbly muscled lifeguard on duty in his special tower, combine to create a very positive picture.

This big beach, with its deep and clear waters, is a favorite with 20somethings. It is complementary to the Asteras beach on the opposite side of the promontory. When it is windy on one side, it is dead calm on the other. There is a special area for sports behind the umbrellas.